if you click on the photo it zooms in

polihale part three

As the morning sun rises on the east side the temperature swells and the ocean does the same.  A couple of feet overhead, lefts, rights, clean, no wind, and hot as you can imagine.  I paddled out hungover and dehydrated as can be and caught one of these bad boys.  It was a fun ride and then i got thrown off like a rag doll and got the "washing machine" on high cycle. After i popped up it seemed about 45 seconds later, i grabbed the board, went to the beach and shot some photos of the guys who knew what they were doing.   

polihale continued

Nathan shows up to polihale with his girlfriend, another buddy of thiers and two other girls.  We all proceed to have a bar b q  on the beach with beers and laughs and watch the sun go down.  Damien had to go back east side because of work in the morning but the rest of us stayed to camp.  Later on, Nate found out that a buh of his buddys were camping about a mile down the beach.  So we pack up camp,, put the fire out and headed to the spot.  Six or seven pickup trucks on the beach, huge bonfire, plenty of booze/food and it was on! Theres nothing like camping out on a warm beach. Why? Because you dont have to pack any layers at all.  The only thing you need is a sleeping bag and your bare essentials.  The most stars i have ever seen in the sky as well. Absolutely incredible!

Polihale

Loose translation of polihale is the land of lost souls.  We drove to the west side of the Island which is much  more dry than the east side and has more gnarly waves for sure.  I was pretty nervous to go out in this surf  due to the fact that it is bigger and more intense than anywhere ive ever surfed.  So i gathered my thoughts said a prayer and was paddling out.  Before i knew it i was in the impact zone getting pounded by wave after wave duck dive after duck dive.  The ocean spat me back out on to the shore and i sat there trying to hype myself up to get back in.  Ten minutes later i got back in more determined and in a better mindset.  This time i made it out to the lineup and Damien throws me  a shaka and im loving it. I got worked on a few waves but also caught a few as well.  This place is truly humbling in the best way.  

Night off

I have officially been here in Kauai for one week and its been the most incredible week of my life.  Two nights ago the " Tru Bruddahs", also known as Damien and Nathan Cwick, cancelled their show up on the North shore.  The reason is the night before they played a gig at "trees lounge" and needless to say we all  had a hell of a time and were not feeling up to playing all the way up there.  Later the next night Damien and I took a couple of ladies that we met at "trees" down to Kealia beach.  We made a fire, drank beers, and played music to the girls.....  and thats all i have to say about that.

day four

Got a pretty late start the the day. Damien went too hard for too many nights and it caught up to him this morning.  Nate picks me up this morning and we drive to the South shore to play some golf for nine dollars a piece.  Most incredible views i have ever seen and oh yea i beat Nate by two strokes.  Later after golf we drove down to the beach to check out a couple of surf spots known as "acid drops" and "cows ass".  We sat there watching these guys get pretty worked out there as we sat safe from a distance and drank beers.  For dinner we went to a sushi place Kintaros  which was amazing.  We ended the night early so as too get up the next day ready to surf.