As the morning sun rises on the east side the temperature swells and the ocean does the same. A couple of feet overhead, lefts, rights, clean, no wind, and hot as you can imagine. I paddled out hungover and dehydrated as can be and caught one of these bad boys. It was a fun ride and then i got thrown off like a rag doll and got the "washing machine" on high cycle. After i popped up it seemed about 45 seconds later, i grabbed the board, went to the beach and shot some photos of the guys who knew what they were doing.
Monday, May 4, 2009
polihale part three
As the morning sun rises on the east side the temperature swells and the ocean does the same. A couple of feet overhead, lefts, rights, clean, no wind, and hot as you can imagine. I paddled out hungover and dehydrated as can be and caught one of these bad boys. It was a fun ride and then i got thrown off like a rag doll and got the "washing machine" on high cycle. After i popped up it seemed about 45 seconds later, i grabbed the board, went to the beach and shot some photos of the guys who knew what they were doing.
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