Monday, May 4, 2009
Loose translation of polihale is the land of lost souls. We drove to the west side of the Island which is much more dry than the east side and has more gnarly waves for sure. I was pretty nervous to go out in this surf due to the fact that it is bigger and more intense than anywhere ive ever surfed. So i gathered my thoughts said a prayer and was paddling out. Before i knew it i was in the impact zone getting pounded by wave after wave duck dive after duck dive. The ocean spat me back out on to the shore and i sat there trying to hype myself up to get back in. Ten minutes later i got back in more determined and in a better mindset. This time i made it out to the lineup and Damien throws me a shaka and im loving it. I got worked on a few waves but also caught a few as well. This place is truly humbling in the best way.